Measure twice, cut once

The old adage about careful measuring to avoid costly mistakes has never been truer than when fitting worktops.

Walls out of square?
Make stiff card templates and transfer the angles onto the worktops ready for cutting.

Replacing old worktops?
If they fit well and can be removed intact, simply use the old ones as templates for the new ones.

Marking out without leaving your mark.
Apply 50mm masking tape to the laminate surface and mark the cut-out on this with a pencil. The lines are much clearer, especially against a dark colour, and you won't risk leaving a permanent mark on the laminate.

Cutting comments

If you're using a hand saw
Cut with the worktop surface uppermost.

Prefer a jig saw?
The worktop should be cut face down to prevent chipping (unless you're using down-cutting blades).

Router out?
Cut the board slightly over-size. The router can clean up the edge afterwards. BUT be sure you're aware of the cutter direction, because a cutter running the wrong way will chip the front edge of the laminate.

Sink and hob cut-outs

When making cut-outs for sinks or hobs use a 10mm drill bit to create radiused corners. This is important to avoid stress cracking of the laminate surface. Allow a 2-3mm gap all the way round to allow the sink or hob to drop in easily.

If the sink or hob is supplied with a seal and any clips or fixing, always use these to ensure that it seats correctly and helps to create a moisture resistant barrier. When fitting a hob, heat resistant self-adhesive aluminium foil tape should also be applied to protect the worktop.

If any other cut-outs are required in the worktop, i.e. to fit around boxed in pipework, never simply cut these square, as this is likely to result in stress cracking. Always use a drill bit, minimum 3mm but ideally larger, to create radiused corners.

Fixing laminate end strip

All of Magnet Trade's laminate worktops are supplied with a length of laminate edging. The quickest and easiest method of applying this is with worktop edging tape, which is basically a double-sided tape with specialist adhesive that bonds effectively to the chipboard core.

Contact adhesive is also relatively easy to use, as it does not require clamping. However care should be taken to avoid any getting onto the laminate surface, as it can be very difficult to remove. Simply brush an even coat of the adhesive onto both the worktop edge and the laminate strip and wait until this is touch dry before applying the strip. The third option is to use PVA, which works fine, but will always require the edging strip to be clamped in place until it dries.

Joint enterprise

The laminate worktop joint is the most critical joint in the entire kitchen. If fitted incorrectly moisture will inevitably get into the chipboard core and the joint will swell. Today's customers demand a thoroughly professional appearance, and for that you need to invest in a worktop jig and use a router to cut mitre joints and slots for toggle bolts.

Using a worktop jig

• Set the jig up and clamp firmly with G-clamps.
• Make sure the pegs are are still in contact with the worktop and not proud of the jig surface.
• To cut a mitre joint position the router in the extreme bottom left hand point of the centre slot and set the cutting depth to 10mm. Avoid removing more than 10mm in each pass.
• For waste removal pass the router steadily along the centre slot using the side of the slot nearest to you to guide the router. Repeat, increasing the depth of cut by 10mm for each pass until the waste has been removed.
• Then, using the side of the slot furthest from you, make a final pass with the router cutter set to maximum depth. This will remove approximately 1mm of worktop and leave a perfectly cut edge.
• Ensure the router cutter remains perpendicular when performing all cuts; this is particularly important when performing cuts with the worktop face down.

Toggle Bolts

• These are are fitted to the underside of the worktop to hold the joint firm whilst the adhesive dries. A well-executed joint does not rely on these bolts for strength once it is dry but once fitted it's easier to just leave the bolts in place.
• Use the worktop jig and router to cut slots on the underside of the worktop for toggle bolts.
• Once adhesive has been applied to the worktop edge, tighten the bolts to clamp the joint together.

ColorFill Drill

ColorFill is perfect for both bonding the joint to seal it against water and domestic detergents AND making the joint almost invisible. It does not need to be mixed or combined with any other material and it is exactly colour matched to the worktop. Magnet Trade supply a matching ColorFill for all laminate worktop options.

Always dry fit the worktop before applying ColorFill to the joint, and ensure you have access through cabinet panels to tighten the joint firmly.

Dishwasher danger

Steam from dishwashers, laundry and cooking appliances can cause the worktop core to swell. To help counter this Magnet Trade's laminate worktops have a seal on the underside of the front edge. Also some appliance manufacturers provide either a metal plate, or a self-adhesive foil, which can be fitted to the underside of the worktop immediately above the appliance. If this is not the case then Magnet can supply a product called Sissal Kraft, which creates a highly effective moisture & heat resistant barrier.

Fixing worktops to units

Before fixing the worktops into position check that the kitchen units are level and secure and there are no gaps underneath to cause issues when the worktop is screwed down. Fix with countersunk chipboard screws through the front rails of the units into the under-side of the worktops.

Use metal L-brackets at the rear edge. In situations where there are no units under the worktops they should be screwed onto timber batons that are securely fixed to the wall. However, if an appliance is being installed under the worktop ensure that these batons do not prevent the appliance from sliding back fully. Avoid spanning greater than 1m without support at the front edge.

Workshop protector rods

Magnet Trade Hot Rods are a great customer-pleasing way to add a finishing touch to any worktop installation. The rods protect the worktop from being damaged by hot pans, and they look superb.

Better still, they can be fitted in less than 5 minutes to any type of worktop – laminate (matt or gloss), solid wood or granite. No need to rout the worktops, simply place the self-adhesive rods in the desired position and apply firm downward pressure along the length of the rod a few times.

Leave them for 24 hours before cleaning and placing anything hot on them. Job done.

Upstands and Splashbacks

Laminate upstands and splashbacks help to make the finished result look even more professional and if installed correctly also help to stop water getting into the back edge of the worktop.